Tuesday 18 October 2011

An island of contradictions

It was a somewhat heartwarming experience to sit in the departure lounge, one eye fixated on the drizzling rain outside Miami airport, the other trained to the screen that proudly announced, "Temperature at St Maarten: 30 degrees, mostly sunny". This was when I really started to count down the minutes (or hours as it turned out to be).

Our plane was late. Another yayyyy for Absolute Ass airlines. When we eventually boarded, the plane was chocka-block and my "window" seat was so located that the best view I was afforded was of the plane's right wing. And nobody likes the right wing ;) Little political joke for you there...

I breezed through customs with no problems at all, not that I expected any in this chilled out corner of the world... then came the massive wait for the baggage. Seriously, there was only 2 planes to unload, come on people, pick up your game! That was my first taste of "Caribbean time".

I walked through the arrival gates, not really knowing what to expect, and found no one was waiting for me. Unalarmed, I went to put my bags down when a frazzled blonde Dutch lady clutching two adorable little daughters rushed through the door. Apologising for her lateness, because my own plane was delayed and she had to get the kids etc etc, we got off to a good start as it was.

St Maarten was undecided about what weather it was going to treat me with on my debut appearance... and soon enuf, the muggy, tropical skies opened to a quick rainshower. It being tropical n all, the shower lasted all of 5 minutes and it was back on the road to Sunny Town from there on in.

As I expected, the town is not all glitz n glamour... sure, there are ritzy hotels, massive boats and more restaurants you can poke a fishing rod at but.... there was a definite divide about locals and tourists (locals here being mostly black people descendant or thereabouts from somewhere nearby, then the Dutch, then the French on the other side of the island). I was already getting looks from the black men... Prepare fending-off stick PRONTO. Wah-pah-chaaaaang!!!

The traffic on the main rd was at a standstill, thanks to some new planning works that involves digging a tunnel under the rd for the water to flow through into the lagoon and prevent flooding. Although my new boss, X, tells me the tunnel has been built lower than the water level of the lagoon so it's just flowing the water the opposite way. Go figure.

It's the first of many observations about the idiocy of this island, which is governed on the Dutch side by the local government and on the French, by the French. Of course. They use the Euro on the French side and apparently even have police enforcement. On the contrary, X has lived on my side for 15 years and is still to be pulled over by the authorities. The discussion we have in the car focuses on these "contradictions", this unorganised infrastructure against the pull of tourism on the island.

The nightclubs are here to give you a good time, if you so want it. Some open regular hours, some never close, many offer the spectrum of good-time additives and apparently this includes South American women. I've been told many a good man has ruined himself on this island. Let's see what they can throw at me.

I asked about the general demographic of visitors to the island and at this time - not the beginning of high season as I first thought - there are mostly older people because it's cheaper. But in general, the Caribbean doesn't seem like the school-leavers' first choice. Which is good and bad for me, really. I hope I find some people my age to have a beer with on occasion.

I did meet some of the workers already, and the locals that live in the basic accommodation I'm renting from Seaside (a bed in a room, sharing facilities but at least they're CLEAN facilities) until I find something more permanent, and they seem intrigued by me. I must work the "boyfriend" angle in conversation sooner than later. But tomorrow I go on a ride with one of the guides and the tourists, so it will be a good chance to chat then. I hope that little piece of information doesn't make them MORE interested.

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