Sunday 19 June 2011

Chasing the sun

It was an early rise for us on our first morning on Isla del Sol. The reports of the sunrises there were just too good to pass up, so I made sure I was the human alarm clock for everyone else. The patio of our hostel catered perfectly for such endeavours, and before we knew it, we were huddled around trying not to lose feeling in our limbs while waiting for the sun to grace us with its presence.

Well, I can safely say it was worth it. We watched as the sea, first a menacing navy blue, gradually pulled in the energy of the glowing sky and ruffled out a silvery trail on its smooth surface, like a path directly to heaven. A donkey bayed in the distance, apparently discontent that its view was being obscured by yet another early start going up and down the hills carrying water for the cholitas. What a slap in the face that would be.

After the sunrise, we were energised but not energised enuf to face the 3-hour trek from the south to the north side of the island. So we opted for a private boat, still only a few dollars each to take, and in about half an hour we were in the north. It was indeed more chilled and I kinda prefered it - ESPECIALLY the lack of massive hill directly at port - but I had left all my things (including my warmer clothes) in the south so I couldn`t switch sides. I had, however, left myself open to stay another night when all the others were determined to make it a one-night voyage... so I knew I had time.

While we faffed around in the north, it became apparent that we would much prefer more time to see the pre-Incan ruins and see the much more picturesque (is that even possible??) side of the north, before returning on our planned boat to the south. The original group was staying another day! So the Aussie guys we met said goodbye and trekked back for the boat, wanting to get to Peru as soon as possible given the border dramas at the moment, and the original group of myself, the Turkish brother sister combo, K the Dutch guy and M the English guy were left to walk the 3 hours back.

What a mission. The track itself wasn`t so hard, at times quite hilly, but it just seemed to go on on and on and on. And then we had a whinging Englishman at the back reminding us of this. Haha... nah it was quite funny, I don`t really think he knew what he got himself into by saying yes to the idea. And worse still, every time we got to the "top" of a hill, we saw another behind it - AND we soon learnt that the "welcome banners" at some of these hills were in fact ticket stops where another region of the island had decided to charge us to pass through. Hmph! Should have heard what the Englishman had to say about that one!

Eventually, we had our town in our sights but it wasn`t over yet. We decided to trek to the top of the highest hill to actually catch the sunset this time, since we had another day to enjoy it now, and we set about trying to find a way up. Well, that was a HARD track. Really steep. Had to take unfit breathers every few seconds. Wow, I am bad. BUT not the worst, might I add haha...

At the top, we started wrapping our underprepared bodies with what warmth we could find and waited impatiently for the sun to disappear. And of course there were fucking clouds, weren´t there. All that effort for clouds. Grr.. We did see some of the sunset, though, but bailed pretty much before it was finished because it was getting darn cold. Then on our way home we glanced back at a brilliant purple/blue/pink flash bidding farewell just before being swallowed by the snow-capped mountains in the distance. Bewwwwwdiful.

After the day´s efforts, we were all understandingly tired so we were in bed shortly after 8pm. Even a hot Columbian guy couldn`t keep me up. Sigh. He was beautiful. 1.5 hours later I get a tap on the window to find French F shivering in the cold, having just finished about 12 hours of walking and needing somewhere to stay. Well, I am not good at being woken up, so I was probably a little bitchier than I needed to be to the poor guy, basically yelling that he needed to make a decision - in or out - but that he should just CLOSE THE DOOR. I was freezing. But imagine him! Poor little tucker...

Unsurprisingly, he chose outside instead of sharing my single bed, and then made friends with the Columbians who gave him a sleeping bag and some of their floor. Bless. Meanwhile, I tossed n turned in bed trying to regain the warmth I had before the wakeup and battling against a raging pain in my tooth. This is not normal. I need to see the dentist again.

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