Surviving the Death Road

We started extra early for the Death Road because the tour operators were unsure if the roads would be blockaded as part of the transport strike in Bolivia, yet my hostel failed to inform me of the time change and I was almost ready when I got a knock on the door. The guide says, "Sorry, but breakfast is..." "Ready?" I ask hopefully. "No, finished". Mother fucker!

It wasn´t finished, in the end, but very nearly, and I gulped down some bread and tea before we all readied ourselves with our super sexy bikeriding gear... Tight lycra riding shirt, orange and green windcheater, coral blue (only for me) 80s trackpants, helmet, arm pads and knee pads (the last optional but I thought it better not to tempt fate).

We set off in 2 minibuses, bikes on the roof, and before I knew it we were pulling over and given instructions about what to do. The first part of the road was not officially the Death Road, so it gave us time to get used to our bikes and established somewhat of a pecking order for the group. I tried to stay away from the couple of people I already found annoying, and was consistently somwhere in the middle of the pack.

Before long, the track turned from ashpalt to gravel and dirt, and the holes we had been avoiding earlier pailed in comparison to the bump n grind of this section. Stopping every 5 minutes or so, and always going downhill, our bodies never had a chance to feel the full grunt of the track (although several of the bikes had problems with their suspension and even my double hydraulic suspension didn`t save me from all the impact) and it was a pretty pleasant ride.

But the view... WOW. We were instructed carefully not to look at it, and just concentrate on the road ahead, but sometimes it was just so hard not to! The track fell away some 450m below us, so looking out there for too long did kinda creep me out... but the mountains, streams, tracks, they all combined to make the most romantic setting I`ve ever seen for a Sunday drive. It`s just a shame so many people actually died on such a drive before they finally finished the safer, much more expensive alternative road. Hence the name Death Road.

We passed several memorials and crosses, and our guide dutifully informed us of some places where several people had slipped over the cliff or falling from their bike at a standstill. That instilled some confidence into us. Hooray. But no one was hurt, not even close. We may have almost given ourselves heart attacks at the last uphill bit, but we survived.

Lunch was served in a lovely valley where some people swam in the pool, we all had showers (promised hot but of course freezing cold) and I stupidly didn`t put my shoes back on for a while, allowing the insects to make a 3 course meal out of my feet. I swear I have never seen a foot so covered in bites in my life. And they are itchy as hell!!

A couple of spliffs later and we were back in the bus, heading back to La Paz pooped but happy about the day. Then it was a case of organising my things YET AGAIN, and trying to get sleep before the 3am pickup for Tiwanaku the next morning. But of course my body wouldn`t let me sleep, would it... Argh, hideous.

Day off ramblings

Hoy es un dia tranquila... but the insects!! I swear I almost screamed before when I was trying to sunbake! They annoy me so much!! And when I opened my eyes I saw the culprits, 2 little black winged bandits circling my legs looking for the next place to pierce. Arrrrggghhhhhhh....

So that`s disturbed my day-off peace, and driven me indoors yet again to the internet. I am sure there are a million things I could be doing while I have the chance, but of course my mind draws a blank when I try to think of them. Beautician - yes, that`s one! But sadly no tattoo... must look into Brazilian tattoo places.

Starting to get itchy feet with this place, it´s been almost 3 weeks and the other English-speaker here is super super keen to vamos as soon as his new passport comes through. Doesn`t make me particularly want to stick around a lengthy time, either... I kinda want to see more of the country. We get paid soon, I wonder how much I will get... Don`t know how they do it here, and I don`t have a contract so it will be interesting.

I have found a way to hook up with people at the hostel after-hours, too... another girl here asks for a key to an empty room and goes in there until about 6am, then leaves before the cleaners start and they clean the room none the wiser. Pretty good plan methinks. Sometimes I feel there is nothing else here to do besides hook up...

One thing I have noticed about this place, probably actually Argentina in total, is that they share everything. You buy a drink, you offer it around the group. You have some lunch, you offer it to everyone. You buy a drink, you better get a big bottle and 6 cups. It`s a little odd, but kinda cool. Except when I have a sore throat and I feel like I am just passing it around the group. But even when we`re chilling back at the staff house, it`s off to get a big bottle of vino to pass around in 2 cups. Probably sounds unspectacular but just thought I`d mention it. Hey, I got the time!!